Thursday, 26 February 2015

Style Arc Evie Tank Top - Post 2

While I would still prefer a knit tank without a dart, the results achieved using the method discussed yesterday just wasn't right for me. It fit ok, better than ready to wear but still not as good as I know it should be, so that option has been ruled out. I will keep an eye out for a t-shirt or tank pattern that comes with different cup size options (suggestions welcome) but till then I will persevere with this pattern.

This morning I have re-drawn the pattern front, re-done the FBA and re-positioned the dart so it sits in a less horizontal slightly lower position angled upwards towards the bust which I am hoping will give a more flattering result, especially on a fabric with more body.

I have also re-drawn another version of the pattern with the dart returned to where it was initially so the extra material at the front can be gathered in at the bust level to match the back side seam length so the room is there but the dart is not, this should work really well with slinky and lightweight knits.

For now it is on to the next muslin, either with the dart or with the gathering, thankful there is enough cheap fabric in the stash to make this process possible. Making muslins can be a very frustrating process but in the end I hope to  have two versions of a TNT pattern that can easily be sewn up at a moments notice with very little fabric, so the effort is worth it.

Wednesday, 25 February 2015

Style Arc Evie Tank Top

I have purchased a few patterns from Aussie company Style Arc in the past and one of these was the Evie Knit Top. As University doesn't re-commence till March 3rd I decided to spend some of my spare time fitting patterns in the hopes of creating some TNT's. I chose this pattern to fit first as it is very quick to sew, it only uses around 80cm of fabric and will be useful all year round; in summer as a wear alone top, in autumn and spring under a shirt and in winter under a jacket.

As I have not sewn any of this make of pattern before I made a quick muslin (only sewing shoulder and side seams from some very cheap material) straight from the pattern to determine sizing, fully expecting I would need to add a FBA and extra length. My expectations were pretty much spot on, there were drag lines pointing straight to my bust and the front was too short.

For the next muslin I added the FBA, stitched in the resulting dart and added a little extra length. Fit is better but still not where I want it to be and I was not sure if I really wanted a dart in a knit, it might be ok hidden in a patterned fabric but not such a great look on a plain fabric, imho anyway.

So, on to the next muslin. This one I ignored the dart, simply straightening the side seam over the dart location reducing the length at the bottom by the width of the dart, similar to this method from Sew Sew Sew Your Boat. I also narrowed the shoulders a little.This fabric was a cheap and nasty interlock with little stretch but overall the fit seems ok, although it appears I need to raise the front shoulder a little as there is some excess fabric bagging out on the front armhole edge. I will wear it for a while before I decide if this is ok to go ahead and trace off another pattern with all changes made so far and cut out in a decent fabric or if further changes need to be made.

I have no pictures to share at the moment but will try and get some when the process is complete.

Sunday, 8 February 2015

Can you ever have enough patterns?

The sensible side of me says yes you can have enough patterns, there are only so many hours in the day, there is only so much sewing a person could do and there is no point owning more patterns than you can ever hope to sew. The collector in me however says no you can never have enough patterns, especially when there are new releases that you simply must have. I balance both points of view and sit somewhere in the middle, I have plenty of patterns and don't 'need' any more but occasionally there are one or two that grab my eye and make their way into my collection.

The latest patterns I have acquired are from Hot Patterns; Three-Piece-Sweet Jacket, Tank & Scarf , the Athleisure big and beautiful overside hoodie and the Metropolitan Deneuve Tuxedo Shirt, Tunic & Shirtdress. I am particularly looking forward to trying the tank pattern as it looks like something I will get a lot of use from.

Crafty Mamma's Lovely Layers

After not sewing anything since I completed the SWAP last January for my youngest son, I thought it was about time I made something for myself. I have not used a Crafty Mamma's pattern before but I decided to give the Lovely Layers top a go and decided on the shorter length, with a scoop neck and short sleeves.

The fabric I chose was a cheap fabric I purchased from eBay some time ago which, from memory, is a cotton jersey. The width of the fabric was an issue, being some 10 cm's or so short so I decided to cut the back in two pieces, cutting the small triangle on the corner as a separate piece and piecing it back together before sewing the garment.

The actual sewing was easy with very few steps; join the shoulders, add neck binding, sew sleeves in flat, join the arm/side seam and finish the bottom and sleeve hems. Too easy, although I will admit I have not sewn the bottom hem yet. The pieced portion on the back can not be seen due to the pattern in the fabric and has not affected the drape of the hem which is good but as it is only a muslin it doesn't really matter anyway.

Personally I don't like clothes too well fitting and this feels a little snug, especially as it is still summer here and rather warm, but this was straight from the pattern with no alterations at all which is rather pleasing. Overall I am happy with the result, a comfortable top that can be worn with a skirt, jeans or crop pants but doesn't look as plain and simple as a t-shirt.